Programme for DHA41, 11–13th October

The scientific programme with oral and poster presentations was held both on-site and digitally during the afternoons. All registered participants on-site were welcome to visit the Gotland Museum for free during the conference, when showing the conference tag.

Programme overview

Programme overview table with workshops and tours. (PDM)

Workshops

Fish skin and wool dyeing (fully booked)

Dye wool yarn and fish skins with Swedish native plants. Participants could take home samples of dyed yarn and fish skin. This workshop was led by Lotta Rahme (Lottas Garfveri) and Mirjam Åkerblom (Gröna Tråden)

Multiband imaging (few places)

Participants received an introduction to multiband imaging with a focus on indigoid visualisation. The workshop contained practical acquistion of images and discuss benefits and limitations. This workshop was led by Joanne Dyer (The British Museum)

Analysis of inorganic mordants and dye auxiliaries (few places)

This workshop gave an introduction to SEM-EDS (scanning electron microscopy energy dispersive spectroscopy) and XRF (X-ray fluorescence), as well as hands-on experience in using the different methods for the characterisation of inorganic components in dyed textiles. These workshops were led by Marei Hacke and Kaj Thuresson (Heritage Laboratory) with support from Amica Sundström and Maria Neijman (Historical Textiles).

Microfading and colour measurement (fully booked)

These workshops gave an introduction to microfading and colour measurement using spectrophotometry. The participants got hands-on experience of measurements on dyed textiles and blue wool standards. These workshops were led by Magnus Mårtensson and Elyse Canosa (Heritage Laboratory).

 

Guided tours

Visit to Gotlands Museum’s storage facility and Langska Huset.

This bus tour focused on Tobias Lang, an 18th and 19th century printer and inventor. We visited Gotlands Museum’s storage to see his original printing blocks and patterns and listened to a lecture by Lena Ideström about his work. Following this, a tour of Tobias Lang’s original house, now a historical building and café.

Guided walking tour of Visby

We joined guide Mikael Norrby (Uppsala University, Campus Gotland) to learn about the fascinating history behind the Hanseatic Town of Visby, part of UNESCOs World Heritage List.

Guided tour of the Heritage Laboratory (no booking needed)

The Heritage Laboratory of the Swedish National Heritage Board is a central facility for the development and application of heritage science, including conservation science, archaeometry and art historical research.

 

Optional extra day: 14th October 2022

Join a 6 hour guided bus tour in the beautiful Gotlandic countryside. We made stops at Högklint (one of Gotland’s highest seaside cliffs), stone ship burial sites from the Bronze Age, an historical fishing village, Mästerby medieval church, and Trådverk (a weaver’s workshop focusing on textiles dyed with natural materials). Lunch and a coffee break was included in the tour.

Scientific Programme

 

Day 1: 11^th October 2022

 

Session: Scandinavia

Chaired by Annemette Bruselius Scharff

13.15 CET

Regina Hofmann-de-Keijzer: Plantae tinctoriae: the 1759 dissertation on dye plants by Engelbert Jörlin

POSTER: Liselotte Öhrling, Ing-Marie Trägårdh, Marei Hacke, Magnus Mårtensson, Sara Norrehed, Ina Vanden Berghe and Alexia Coudray:  Colours in the collection of medieval archaeological textiles at Lödöse museum

Margaret Knudtzon: Increased colorant import during the 18th century reflects the start of the consumer society in Norway

POSTER: Krista Wright, Ina Vanden Berge and Jenni Sahramaa: Dyes of Lieto Ristinpelto textiles, from 13th century Finland

Break

Session: Method development and application – minimally-invasive

Chaired by Joanne Dyer

15.00 CET

Constantina Vlachou-Mogire, Yingwang Gao, John R Gilchrist, Mika Takami, Kate Orfeur and Kathryn Hallett: Mapping materials and dyes on historic tapestries using hyperspectral imaging

POSTER: Yoshiko Saski, Tomoaki Okamura and Ken Sasaki: Non-invasive analysis of dyes used for the outer surface of the Honmaru Goten (Honmaru Palace, Nijo Castle, World Heritage Site) sliding door covers

Edith Sandström, Chiara Vettorazzo, C. Logan Mackay, Helen Wyld, Lore G. Troalen and Alison N. Hulme: Dye analysis of historical textiles using DESI-MS

POSTER: Silvana Vasilca, Irina Petroviciu, Mihalis Cutrubinis, Marian Virgolici, Valentin Moise and Andrei Medvedovici : Gamma radiation effect on early synthetic dyes

Break 

Session: Historical recipes

Chaired by Sara Norrehed

16.30 CET

Thainá Vígio Ribeiro, Sofía Vicente Palomino, Dolores Julia Yusá Marco and Montesinos Ferrandis: The study of Chinese dyes recipes on silk

POSTER: Kathryn Raeburn McClure, Anita Quye, David J. France: James Morton and the anthraquinoid vat dyes: a revolution in synthetic dye fastness

Marie-Anne Sarda, Jérôme Delatour, Caroline Eude-Devaux and Clément Bottier: ‘Caillet de Recetes et Segrets’, ‘Livret contenant la manière de bien gouverner le guesde (…)’: two unpublished French dyers’ books from the 17th century

POSTER: Irene Bilbao Zubiri and Anne-Laure Carré: Giving a new status to a dyes collection : a contribution to the Chromotope project

POSTER: Athanasia Tsatsarou, Aleksopoulou Athina-Georgia, Nadia Macha-Bizoumi and Anna Karatzani: Investigation of dyeing materials used in Greece from the 18th century onwards

 

Day 2: 12^th October 2022

 

Session: Indigo and shellfish purple

Chaired by Ilaria Degano

13.15 CET

Jenny Boulboullé, Arjen Dijkstra, Art Ness Proaño Gaibor, Hester Hazenberg, Hans Jackmaert, Ids de Jong, Claudy Jongstra, Jan Metzlar, Natalia Ortega Saez, Birgit Reissland, Luc de Vries, Valérie Wartelle: Eise Eisinga’s celestial blues: archival documentation and the revival of woad blues in the Netherlands

POSTER: Dominique Cardon, Paula Nabais, Patrick Brenac and Isabelle Castel-Brenac: Blue and Yellow – A colourful approach to the dialectic between written sources and experimental archaeology

POSTER: Adrienn Görgényi Andersdotter, Lotta Rahme: Fish skin dyeing tests with woad (Isatis tinctoria) and Japanese indigo (Persicaria tinctoria)

Zvi C. Koren: Determination of the malacological provenance of archaeological purple pigments via the “Di-Mono” index

POSTER: Keith Ramig, Olga Lavinda, Timone Eskaros, Tazrian Islam, Sasan Karimi and Christopher Cooksey: Probing the thermochromicity of fabric dyed with 6-bromoindigo and 6,6’-dibromoindigo, components of Tyrian purple

POSTER: Athina Vasileiaodu, Ioannis Sampsonidisa, Stavros Kalogiannis, Georgios Theodoridis, Ioannis Karapanagiotis and Anastasia Zotoua: Degradation products and colouring components of shellfish purple identified by UHPLC-MS/MS

Break

Session: Applied dye analyses – archaeological textiles and beyond

Chaired by Jo Kirby

15.00 CET

Mary Ballard, G. Asher Newsome, Elizabeth Simpson and Brendan Burke: Ancient chromophores and auxiliaries: Phrygian colorants from Tumulus MM at Gordion, Turkey, ca 740 BCE

POSTER: Magdolna Bekesi-Gardanfalvi, Fehér Sándor, Bak Miklós and Tamás Hofmann: Identification of organic dyes in the assemblage of women’s garments from the early 17th century discovered at the Benedictine Church of Sopron

Lucrezia Milillo, Marei Hacke, Sara Norrehed, Ilaria Degano and Francesca Gherardi: Heritage science contribution to the understanding of meaningful khipu colours

POSTER: Inês Palma and Ana Manhita: On the trail of colour: the garments of Cardinal-Infant Henry, a prince at the head of the Church

Break 

Session: Reconstructing recipes

Chaired by Art Ness Proaño Gaibor

16.30 CET

Mel Sweetnam, Isabella Whitworth, Deb Bamford, Jane Deane, Sally Pointer, Lorena Boquete, Ella McCafferty Wright, Katarzyna Stasińska, Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke, Sue Day, Jackie Bush, Heather Bogart, Donna Buitendyk Fillion, Vera Hoenen, Theresa Hornstein, Sally Koski, Jo Jenner, Tonya Pettit, Kerry Sowells, Jude Tupman and Sue Crook: Recreating dye results from Stockholm & Leyden Papyri methods

POSTER: Vincent Cattersel, Natalia Ortega Saez, Emile Van Binnebeke, Geert Van der Snickt, Nele Vanassche: ‘La peinture en bois’ – Reconstructing a colourful past based on the faded present

Paula Nabais, Mara Santo, Adelaide Clemente and Dominique Cardon: Yellow dyes of historical importance. V. A handful of weld yellows from the 18th century recipe books of French master dyers Antoine Janot and Paul Gout

POSTER: Kateřina Hricková, Radka Šefců, Václava Antušková, Karolína Hricková: Database of artistic materials of National Gallery Prague

POSTER: Barbara Błyskal: Antimicrobial properties of natural dyes and pigments

 

Day 3: 13^th October 2022

 

Session: Applied dye analyses – textiles of the 18th-20th centuries

Chaired by Zvi Koren (online) with David Peggie (in person)

13.15 CET

Diego Tamburini, Meejung Kim-Marandet and Sang-ah Kim: Dye identification in mounting textiles of late Joseon Korean paintings

Karina Leijense, Art Proaño Gaibor, Ineke Joosten, Remi Veldhoven and Michael Nix: 18th century glazed brocaded worsted satins Hemdroks from Zeeland

Irina Petroviciu, Iulia Teodorescu, Silvana Vasilca and Florin Albu: Transition from natural to early synthetic dyes in the Romanian traditional shirts decoration

Break

Session: Method development and application – Asian dyes

Chaired by Edith Sandström

15.00 CET

Francesca Sabatini, Brenda Doherty, Marco Mattonai, Ilaria Degano and Bruno Brunetti: Unveiling the composition of native Japanese dye plants by a combined analytical protocol

POSTER: Diego Tamburini, Joanne Dyer, Caroline Cartwright and Alexandra Green: Changes in the production of Burmese textiles in the long 19th century – a focus on dye and fibre characterisation of Karen garments from the British Museum’s collection

Lucia Noor Melita, Diego Tamburini and Capucine Korenberg: Using HPLC-HRMS for the analysis of organic colourants in Japanese woodblock prints

POSTER: Valda Valkovska: Dyes of traditional clothing of Suiti in the 19th-20th century

Break 

Session: Paintings and prints

Chaired by Marei Hacke

16.30 CET

David Peggie, Helen Howard and Jo Kirby: Organic Colourants in Margarito d’Arezzo’s The Virgin and Child Enthroned, with Scenes of the Nativity and the Lives of the Saints (probably 1263–4): Some unexpected discoveries using a multi-analytical approach

POSTER: Adele Ferretti, Jacopo La Nasa, Ilaria Degano, Beatrice Campanella, Stefano Legnaioli, Sara Penoni, Renata Pintus, Cristiana Todaro and Francesca Modugno: Discovering the ink murals: multi-analytical approach for the study of “Wall Drawing #736” by Sol LeWitt

Tiago Veiga, A. Moro, P. Nabais, V. Otero, M. Vilarigues and M. J. Melo: Finding madder reds in 19th-early 20th century oil paintings

POSTER: Natércia Teixeira, André Neto e Silva, Luís Cunha-Silva, Paula Nabais, Maria Rangel, Fernando Pina, Victor de Freitas and Maria João Melo: To be or not to be an iron gall ink: a multi-analytical methodology for the study of iron-polyphenol complexes.